Lo street food a Shanghai

 

Per 3 anni consecutivi ho vissuto circa un mese all’anno a Shanghai, sotto Natale, mangiando in ristoranti di lusso e in orrende bettole (senza mai star male, in barba alle dicerie), facendo la spesa al mercato e cucinando alla cinese in casa, oppure sbocconcellando per strada le infinite varianti di street food che catturavano il mio naso ad ogni angolo di strada.

Cerco di raccontarvi qualcosa, ma non e’ facile, perche’ i ricordi sono affollati come i  colori in un caleidoscopio.

Vi diro’  che ho avuto l’impressione che nessun cinese mangi a casa propria: partono da casa al mattino con un biccherone a tappo ermetico pieno di un qualche bibitone, oppure semplicemente di te, e lo reggono con una mano per tutto il tragitto in metropolitana (ci sono almeno 19 linee!), mentre nell’altra tengono il cellulare, oppure un lunch box.
Alla sera, spesso cenano per strada (ovvero in trattoria o al fast food) e arrivano a casa “gia’ mangiati”, anche perche’ magari hanno un secondo lavoro che li attende, e di spentolare il tempo non c’e’ proprio.

 

Per cui hanno mille ed una risorsa.

In piena citta’, accanto al ristorante chic puo’ esserci la friggitoria, e nel centro commerciale c’e’ un piano intero dedicato al food, dove spesso puoi scegliere cio’ che vuoi mangiare quando e’ ancora crudo, e porgerlo al cuoco che te lo cucina su due piedi.

Il tutto si puo’ regolare con una carta ricaricabile, provvista di chip, su cui carichi denaro e lo scali piano piano: cosi’ non perdi tempo!

La fantasia cinese nel preparare snack non ha confini, cosi’ come la ricchezza di offerte del supermercato.

E comunque, per fare la spesa… incrocia le dita!

Praticamente tutti i prodotti, detersivo, farina, lievito, latte, caramelle hanno scritte solo in cinese, e anche il resto, cioe’ i prodotti freschi, non e’ cosi’ facile da identificare.

Ti soprenderai quando riconoscerai al massimo il 5% dei prodotti esposti. E’ un’esperienza, ma non spiacevole: direi challenging, come la definirebbero gli inglesi.

Il pollo secco salato l’hai visto, laggiu’?
Ci sono contenitori grandi come mezza Smart, al Walmart, con polli spaccati a meta’ e messi sotto sale, e musetti di maiale affumicati, e orecchie di porco secche, e serpentelli vivi, che nuotano nelle vasche accanto alle rane (vive anche loro), e una miriade di pesci, pescetti e gamberini vari, essiccati e venduti sfusi a mestolate come le caramelle.
Alcuni li sgranocchiano per strada, mentre vanno al lavoro.

Vuoi un’idea? Eccoti le mie FOTO pubbliche su FB, contenute nell’album “Cibi strani” !

Piu’ cinese di cosi’ si muore, e a vederli a volte muori un po’ anche tu!
😀

Pure verdura e frutta non sono proprio tutte note, ma il difficile si presenta al banco gastronomia (quello dei freschi, come lo chiamiamo noi), dove tra i cibi pronti proprio non sapresti che cosa scegliere.

Te la senti di osare e scegliere in base al colore e alla forma, oppure pensi: “Compro sei uova e ho risolto”?

Io ci porrei molta attenzione, fossi in te, perche’ esistono anche le uova dei cent’anni: magari non ne hanno cento, ma comunque sono state conservate a lungo nella sabbia , con un antico procedimento, e sono nere internamente.
Insomma, potrebbero non piacerti.

Ma poi, visto che costa poco mangiare al ristorante, perche dovresti far fatica?

E poi, se non ti va il locale, oppure vuoi solo uno snack mattutino, fino alle 10, nella strada di fronte a casa c’è un signore che prepara enormi crêpes sopra ad un bidone di gasolio trasformato in friggitrice, unto che piu’ unto non si puo’, piazzato li’ sul marciapiede, e c’è sempre la coda.

L’olio che cola fuori ovviamente lo raccoglie con una vecchia lattina di fagioli provvista di manico artigianale, e lo re-immette in circolo, ma c’e’ la fila lo stesso, e anche se le condizioni igieniche sono precarie, ti assicuro che sono sopravvissuta anch’io.
E buona che era, quella focaccia!

 

Il suo collega due strade piu’ in la’, invece, confeziona delle focaccine con erba cipollina che farebbero resuscitare un morto solo a sniffarle: vorrai mica non provarle?

Il problema a Shanghai non e’ mangiare, ma riuscire a stare in mezzo a gente che non mangia: anche la sera di Natale, al Grand Shanghai Theatre, nei momenti clou de Il Lago dei Cigni, coi ballerini del Russian Imperial Ballet, arrivava l’olezzo della cipolla del chicken take-away che parecchia gente si era portata dietro.

La scusa pero’ era valida: i ristoranti chiudono presto, e restano solo le friggitorie.

A proposito: sai come fanno a convincerti che è ora di levar le tende? Aprono la porta: il gelo che invade la sala in inverno (o il caldo umido in estate) è il primo passo: poi abbassano le luci, cosi’ –comprenderai- la festa e’ bella che finita!

E se poi non e’ proprio fame, ma piuttosto voglia di qualcosa di buono, e magari hai anche sete?
All’angolo c’e’ un simpatico suonatore di organetto… no, hai visto male!
Non e’ un organetto: e’ un marchingegno con cui il ragazzo ti spremera’ la canna da zucchero, servendoti un bicchiere di dolcissimo, ma delizioso, succo di canna, energetico e dissetante; se e’ inverno, sara’ anche gelato, ma questo e’ un corollario.

Ma non ti lascio cosi’: ti propongo le immagini dello street food piu’ pazzesco (se non hai il coraggi e lo stomaco di Bravehart astieniti dal visionarle) che tu possa immaginare.

CLICCA QUI (Ne vale la pena, credimi!) e vai direttamente al mio album pubblico di foto su FB… buona visione e buon stomaco!

Dal vero queste “leccornie” le troverai solo al centro di Pechino, dove c’è un mercatino specialissimo: tanti banchetti di friggitoria,  illuminati con lanterne rosse, che mettono sul bbq, a richiesta, tutto ciò che si può infilzare su uno stecco, e non importa che abbia le zampe, e nemmeno quante: scolopendre, frutta, scarafaggi, bachi da seta, stelle marine, seppie, bistecche, scorpioni, prezzemolo, salsicce.

Una visita è doverosa, ma l’assaggio e’ facoltativo.

Cina moderna e antica, Cina favolosa e a volte assurda… ma, decisamente, lo street food lo hanno inventato li!.

 

650 thoughts on “Lo street food a Shanghai

  1. Ma che meraviglia!! Che bellissimo articolo!!! Me lo rileggerò con calma (per ora me lo sono divorata). Intanto ti inseriamo nei racconti di streetfood! Grazie mille!! Daniela

    PS. se vuoi puoi postarci ancora una ricetta e due racconti!
    PS2. “CLICCA QUI (Ne vale la pena, credimi!)” –> questo album non riesco a vederlo, l’altro sì invece!

    1. Certamente, vi inviero’ ancora qualcosa: non volevo allargarmi troppo, sai com’e’!
      Per il link, grazie di avermelo segnalato: probabilmente ho fatto un pasticcio con la privacy dell’album, ma rimedio subito.
      se ti capita di aver tempo, piu’ tardi prova a vedere se adesso funziona.
      Grazie ancora: mi piace un sacco il vostro Contest, perche’ da’ l’occasione di conoscere altre realta’ geografiche e culinarie.
      A prestissimo!

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