Stoccafisso accomodato, ricetta genovese, magra e saporita

Oggi per tutti stoccafisso accomodato con la ricetta genovese.
Ma prima, lasciatemi fare una piccola introduzione storica, che peraltro potete saltare, se volete!
I paesi cattolici d’Europa sono sempre stati, tradizionalmente, gli importatori n.1 dello stoccafisso che la Norvegia esportava nel mondo, perche’ il venerdi si mangiava sempre e comunque pesce.
In particolare a Genova lo stoccafisso era popolarissimo, sia in tempo di Quaresima, che durante tutto l’anno, anche perche’ era facile portarselo dietro sulle navi per preparare il pranzo alla ciurma: era di facile conservazione e immagazzinamento, e bastava a provvedere la porzione di sostanze minerali, proteine e vitamine che aggiunte ai limoni ed al basilico -sempre presenti fin dai tempi piu’ remoti nel ‘giardinetto’ delle navi liguri- mettevano al riparo i marinai genovesi dai pericoli dell’avitaminosi durante i lunghi viaggi senza scali.

Oggigiorno le persone lo mangiano per lo piu’ al ristorante, soprattutto per l’odore che sprigiona durante la cottura.
Inoltre, anche se si puo’ comprare gia’ bagnato, cioe’ ammollato in acqua fredda corrente (o con frequenti cambi di acqua) per almeno 4 giorni, va fatto a pezzi per esser cotto, e spesso nessuno ha piu’ voglia di cimentarsi in questa operazione non semplice, se si considera che spesso i coltelli di casa sono poco performanti, mentre l’odore si sprigiona in casa e l’acqua di pesce cola ovunque!
Ma non e’ tuttavia difficile prepararlo in casa!

La versione piu’ semplice da preparare e’ lo stoccafisso bollito, accompagnato da patate lesse, aglio, olive e acciughe sotto sale, che in alcune parti della Liguria chiamano brandacujun, ma e’ altrettanto buono quello accomodato.

 

Col termine accomodato a Genova si intende sempre un cibo cotto con pomodoro, aromi e patate, quindi rosso: puo’ essere anche trippa.
E’ inutile che vi dica che ogni trattoria e ogni massaia genovese hanno la loro personale versione, che assai poco si discosta comunque da una ricetta base comune, che prevede pomodoro, cipolla, aglio e patate.

Per non fare eccezione, io vi propongo la mia versione, che e’ quella di mia nonna,

INGREDIENTI

stoccafisso: dipende dal numero dei commensali

1 cipolla bianca

2 spicchi d’aglio

prezzemolo tritato (fresco)

olive taggiasche, meglio se denocciolate

1 manciata di pinoli

passata densa di pomodoro (meglio dei pomodori a pezzi, perche’ fa meno acqua)

patate: una per ogni commensale

olio extravergine taggiasco, sale, acqua q.b.

PROCEDIMENTO

1. Tagliare a pezzi piccoli lo stoccafisso, dopo averlo abbondantemente lavato

2. Pre-lessare le patate al dente (potete anche cuocerle nella pentola con lo stoccafisso, introducendole ad un certo punto della cottura, ma e’ piu’ difficle azzeccare il momento giusto)

3. Soffriggere in olio extravergine di oliva la cipolla e l’aglio, tritati assieme al prezzemolo, poi gettarvi dentro i pezzi di stoccafisso e le olive, rimescolando.

4. Dopo pochi minuti, continuando la cottura a fuoco basso, con l’aiuto di un pochino di acqua, per non far attaccare al fondo della pentola, aggiungere anche la passata densa di pomodoro.

4. Assaggiare dopo una ventina di minuti e aggiungere le patate tagliate a pezzi o a fette spesse.
Non aggiungetele all’inizio della cottura, perche’ si disferanno prima che il piatto sia pronto!
Anzi: si possono anche lasciare da parte (tenendole al caldo) e mettere a letto sotto il pesce all’atto di impiattare, irrorandole col sugo dello “stocche” (cosi’ si chiama in gergo a Genova), intanto si insaporiranno lo stesso.

NOTA: Non usate vini strani e costosi per accompagnare questo piatto: vanno bene una lumassina dei colli savonesi, un pigato o un vermentino ligure (quello sardo e’ differente, ma va bene anche lui!)

 

 

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