Panini non convenzionali per Sangiovesi speciali… Sangiovese e dintorni a Milano

 

Dal mio inviato speciale #MatteoFalcon, collaboratore de La Masca in Cucina per le questione “alcoliche” (insieme, come ricorderete senz’altro, all’amica sommelier veronese) ecco un’accurata descrizione, che ho steso su sua indicazione:
“Non faccio davvero fatica a parlare di papa’ Sangiovese e tanto meno di suo figlio Chianti, che mi sono molto simpatici perche’ ho avuto modo di studiarli “sul posto” durante un breve soggiorno autunnale a Siena.

Sono inoltre doppiamente fresco di studi, perche’ ieri sera ho fatto un succulento ripasso nella Milano piu’ che mai da bere, a due passi (o forse quattro, ma comunque sempre walking distance) da Garibaldi, in quel di via Paolo Sarpi, Chinatown.

Chiamata cosi’ puo’ sembrar poco appealing per chi non conosce la zona e la immagina piena solo di negozietti di abiti ed elettronica, ma in realta’ e’ una fucina di locali carini e angoli per cene e assaggi oltre che -ça va sans dire- il luogo dei luoghi per far aggiustare un Iphone5 che ha pensato bene di non caricarsi piu’.
Cosi’ ho decisamente ammortizzato la “grana” di dover andare a far riparare il cellulare di pater con l’incarico di fare da wine taster per conto di mater, che mi ha omaggiato dell’onere nonche’ dell’onore di collaboratore alcolico del suo sito.
Why not, perche’ no, anzi… Wine not, come recitava l’invito.
Del resto, erano “Abbinamenti non convenzionali per Sangiovesi speciali” e non si poteva dire di no.

batzella

Hållbar e’ il locale, Luigi Batzella lo chef, Casale dello Sparviero la cantina anfitrione della serata, tre le degustazioni di vino, tre i Panini (sublimi, quindi la maiuscola calza a pennello) ideati in abbinamento dallo chef, infinita la cortesia di chi ha concesso a me un bis e un tris perche’ potessi “capire proprio bene” le sfumature di sapore.
😀
Lo Sparviero e’ un uccello deciso, e quindi mi aspettavo giustamente tanto dal vino che porta il suo nome.
Tra l’altro, la cantina (della quale trovate ubicazione, foto e dati cliccando sul link proposto poche righe sopra, in verde) si trova in un antico convento e si chiama cosi’ perche’ gli sparvieri nidificano tra le sue mura da sempre, e guardate quanto sono carini!

spavieri

Mi sento quasi a casa guardando la foto, perche’ allo chalet ho le poiane a farmi compagnia.

La cantina Casale dello Sparviero e’ un produttore che crede nella qualita’ piu’ che nella quantita’, proprio in quella qualita’ che rende eccellente ed inimitabile l’enogastronomia italiana: pur avendo una superficie totale di 380 ettari e una parte coltivata a vigneto di un certo rispetto (90 ettari), predilige la resa bassa per ettaro a favore dell’alta qualita’, in modo da selezionare proprio il grappolo migliore per fare il vino migliore, e ha deciso di concentrarsi su vitigni autoctoni della Toscana (il Sangiovese e il Canaiolo) e sul rosso e… dintorni.

sangiovese

Lo Sparviero rosé, primo dei vini degustati in accoppiata con un panino alle olive con mozzarella di bufala, pomodorino Camone sardo e pesto di basilico, rappresenta infatti proprio  i “dintorni”, cioe’ la grande sfida: proporre un rosato di qualita’ -prodotto con sangiovese in purezza- nella terra del rosso per eccellenza e in un’Italia che al rosé crede poco.
Fresco e armonico, con sentori di frutta, lo chef Batzella l’ha accoppiato a un panino vegetariano, ma saporito.
Ho assaggiato e, come detto ripassato, e l’abbinamento mi e’ piaciuto molto, anche perche’ sono un estimatore del rosé, che generalmente compro in Francia, o meglio: compravo fino ad ora.

Sul fronte del rosso, due proposte degne di nota, da centellinare in ordine.

Con un panino delicato al maialino da latte, cimette fresche e dressing allo yogurt si e’ abbinato il Rosso dello Sparviero, composto da 60% di Sangiovese, 20% di Merlot e 20% di Cabernet Sauvignon: e’ un rosso beverino, che esalta e accompagna la carne delicata peche’ e’ fresco e fruttato.
Il sapore lo rende perfetto per una clientela varia ed internazionale.
E’ una simbiosi perfetta -vi assicuro- quella tra il maialino, le verdure di stagione, l’acidulo della salsa allo yogurt e un vino rosso piacevole, ma easy going.

E ultimo venne il Chianti Classico (la grande passione de La Masca in Cucina che, se reggesse l’alcool, ne berrebbe ben piu’ del canonico mezzo bicchiere, ma deve invece limitarsi e manda avanti lo scudiero), toscano al 100%, con un 90% di Sangiovese e un 10% Canaiolo, da accoppiare ad un panino robusto.

Rubino intenso alla vista, non tradisce le aspettative coi suoi sentori di frutti di bosco e di viola e riesce a reggere  ed accompagnare l’imponente presenza di roastbeaf, confettura di cipolla di Tropea, zola invecchiato (sublime) e, tanto per non farsi mancare nulla, senape.

Vi diro’ che anche del terzo panino ho fatto uno scrupoloso ripasso (anzi: forse era un tripasso), perche’ quando si lavora le cose vanno fatte con coscienza, fino in fondo, e direi che il 110 lode alla coppia cibo-vino lo si da senza pensarci su.

Gradevole e’ il locale, ottimi sono i panini gourmet (la differenza tra un tipo qualsiasi che cucina e uno chef non sta solo nell’uso che fanno dei media  e dei petali nel piatto, come molti credono) molto carina l’idea del cruciverba a tema vinicolo, decisamente disponibile al dialogo e alle spiegazioni Casale dello Sparviero, molto attivo sui social, veloce nelle condivisioni, nei tag, nei contatti: tutte queste cose sono sinonimo di voglia di fare, il che e’ molto bello.

Alla prossima, quindi!”

Prosit, e ricordatevi che non e’ tedesco, ma latino.

MatteoFalcon_lamascaincucina

92 thoughts on “Panini non convenzionali per Sangiovesi speciali… Sangiovese e dintorni a Milano

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