A identita’ Golose per un pranzo con lo chef Andrea Ribaldone – MatteoFalcon alla tastiera

“Quando i vini passano in secondo piano” e’ il sottotitolo che ho scelto per questo articolo, ed e’ un grandissimo complimento (non che ce ne sia bisogno) per Andrea Ribaldone, stellato di Alessandria, chef de I DUE BUOI: il pranzo presso Identita’ Golose ad Expo Milano 2015 ha infatti colpito e stupito le mie papille gustative ancor piu’ dei vini, che di solito mi piace assaggiare e recensire.

Dopo un evento interessante come quello promosso da Sanpellegrino, nel quale e’ stato presentato al mondo e a un rappresentante del governo italiano (on. Ivan Scalfarotto) il MANIFESTO PER IL MADE IN ITALY (QUI per una cronaca dell’evento) ci si aspettava un pranzo all’altezza e non si e’ rimasti delusi.

Bello Identita’ Golose (in particolare la terrazza con vista sul decumano) e notevolmente cortese l’accoglienza, ma la star era  -come logico- Andrea Ribaldone.

In apertura ecco una creazione che non avrebbe mai potuto passare inosservata: panna cotta ai porcini e brodo di funghi abbinata a una Malvasia bianca, vellutata nell’accompagnare il sapore e il sentore intensi dei funghi.
E’ un piatto importante, alleggerito da una punta di maggiorana: un classico della cucina alessandrina, la maggiorana, presente ad esempio nei ravioli di Gavi.

Ribaldone

A seguire un primo “forte”, che reinterpreta il risotto classico milanese andando oltre: pasta Felicetti alla moda di Identita’ Golose, cioe’ alla crema di risotto allo zafferano (preparato col metodo classico che prevede l’impiego del midollo dell’ossobuco)
E’ un piatto non leggero, questo e’ chiaro, ma se lo accompagni col Gavi e’ perfetto perche’ e’ un vino secco e deciso che sgrassa a meraviglia.
Conosco bene il Gavi e so che, per quanto il sapore possa differire a seconda dell’esposizione di una vigna rispetto ad un’altra, le caratteristiche macroscopiche sono sempre quelle e te lo fanno riconoscere anche ad occhi bendati: e’ un vino eccellente come aperitivo, ma puo’ sostenere anche l’abbinamento con un piatto importante.

Ribaldone

Ma e’ il secondo che ho trovato davvero stupefacente: il maiale brado dei colli tortonesi con taccole e senape à l’ancienne.
Proprio questo piatto credo abbia conquistato una simbolica ovazione da parte dei convitati, perche’ tagliandolo appariva poco cotto all’interno e lasciava perplessi, ma in realta’ era perfetto e si scioglieva in bocca!
Di certo la senape ha giocato un ruolo determinante per la morbidezza del maiale, ma il resto lo hanno fatto la carne in se’ e la maestria dello chef.
Il maiale brado lo riconosci per la carne compatta di chi sta all’aperto e caracolla tutto il giorno: niente venature di grasso, perche’ esso e’ diffuso nel tessuto, massaggiato dal movimento.
Questo e’ l’effetto naturale (il movimento che da’ tono ai tessuti)  equivalente a quello che i Giapponesi ottengono massaggiando il bue di Kobe.
Standing ovation per un piatto cosi’, completato dal Nuhar della tenuta Rapitala’: Nero d’Avola (70%) – Pinot Nero (30%), un vino rotondo nel quale il nero d’Avola viene affinato in acciaio e il pinot nero in barriques di rovere francese per circa 9 mesi e poi vengono assemblati, imbottigliati e affinati ancora in bottiglia.

Ribaldone

Un tris perfetto non poteva che essere accompagnato da un dolce speciale: strizzando l’occhio al Mediterraneo e alla Liguria -cosi’ vicini alla zona di Alessandria- con attenzione verso la necessita’ di un dessert fresco che non venisse necessariamente dal frigo, chef Ribaldone ha proposto il cioccolato Opalis Valrhona abbinato ad arancia e chinotto.
Delizioso, in una parola.
Non stucchevole, ma soddisfacente.
Goloso.
Che cosa berci insieme?
Un Recioto di Soave classico: il sapore intenso di questo passito del Veneto ben si abbina alla frutta.

Ribaldone

A parte il pranzo (si capisce che mi e’ piaciuto?) ho trovato simpatico Ribaldone, che e’ passato non una,ma due volte tra i tavoli a conoscere gli invitati: abbiamo conversato del Capodanno Estivo che da vent’anni si festeggia in agosto ad Alessandria (lo sapevate? 😉 )
Andra’ visitato a casa sua, a I Due Buoi, giusto per un ripasso di sapori.

#MatteoFalcon

 

 

 

 

 

106 thoughts on “A identita’ Golose per un pranzo con lo chef Andrea Ribaldone – MatteoFalcon alla tastiera

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